Longs Peak Standard Route Guide
Longs Peak is the queen of the front range, rising high above the northern Colorado rocky mountains. She isn’t a mountain to be trifled with; More people have died climbing Longs Peak than any other mountain in the state. Most who perish or get injured do so because they’re unprepared and don’t realize the significance of this route. It involves long distances, climbing on steep rock, and requires and early 2am start to be back below tree line before afternoon storms hit. Be prepared before you head out for this peak. Get your research started with my Longs Peak Standard Route Guide below.
Longs Peak Fast Facts
Longs Peak Standard Route Guide
Longs Peak is a long ascent for a single day. If that’s your plan, aim to hit the trail by 2am to ensure you’re back safe below tree line before afternoon lightning storms strike. The section of trail below tree-line is well-built and maintained. You’ll go up a few switchbacks and cross a stream before you approach tree line. Once you pop out from under the forest you’ll have a great view of Mount Lady Washington in front of you with Longs Peak beyond it (if you can see in the dark).
At the junction to Chasm Junction there’s a National Park-maintained bathroom you can use. Otherwise take a hard right here to walk along the slopes of Mt Lady Washington. Your next goal is Granite Pass, where you’ll take a left.
After Granite Pass, climb a series of swicthbacks up Mt Lady Washington’s northwest slopes. You’ll probably begin to see dawn during this section. In the boulderfield you will pass your last chance to use a bathroom along with the tents of those who reserved a spot up here for the night. Continue southwest and aim for the Keyhole rock feature.
The Keyhole is often a significant bottleneck as the scrambling beyond it considerably slows most individuals. Be warned: From this point you are only about halfway there time-wise. Stop to check the weather here. If storms are near, it’s best to head back and try another day. If things look clear, pass through the Keyhole and head to your left.
You now enter a section called “The Ledges.” It’s a relatively easy section of scrambling with a dramatic drop-off to Glacier Gorge below. While the scrambling isn’t technically difficult, it may be a lot to handle for those who prefer avoiding heights. Follow the red and yellow bullseye marks painted onto rocks by the Park Service. These will lead you to the summit.
Towards the end of the Ledges you’ll enter a large boulder-filled gully called the Trough. This is where you’ll gain most of your elevation to the summit. Follow the bullseye up the trough, passing back and forth from the left to the right side to take the path of least resistance. Wear a helmet during this section and beyond. Falling rocks are commonly knocked loose by those above you. If you knock a rock loose, shout rock to those below. If you hear rock – don’t look up, Look straight forward – your helmet will protect you.
At the top of the trough lies the chokestone: a series of large rocks leaning up against one another. There are several ways to scramble up this rock. Take time, watch how others go up, and make it up and over this point into the Narrows section.
The Narrows takes you along the south face of Longs Peak as you traverse to the Homestretch. Here the scrambling is again not difficult, but a fall would be fatal. Take your time moving carefully, especially over one awkwardly placed rock early in the route.
Finally, the flat Homestretch takes you the last several hundred feet up to the summit. The surface has many cracks which are prefect to follow up to the summit. Things are more difficult if the rock is wet or covered in ice.
Finally, you’ll inch your way on to the strangely flat summit of Longs Peak! Enjoy a spectacular view of the entire Front Range, including Longmont, Boulder and Denver below on the plains. Make sure you head back with time to make it back below tree line before noon.
I hope you enjoyed my Longs Peak Standard Route Guide. Did I forget something important? Do you have an experience or story to add? Share your thoughts with the Next Summit community in a comment below!
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About the Author: Alex Derr
Alex Derr is a mountaineer and blogger based in Denver Colorado. He is working to climb Colorado’s highest 100 peaks, and the 20 tallest peaks in California. He created The Next Summit to share advice, stories, history & reflections from the Colorado Rockies & Sierra Nevada. When not climbing, he is managing the Communications strategy at Visible Network Labs.