Crestone Needle Route Guide | One of the Most Most Deadly 14ers

The Crestone Needle is one of the most rugged of the Colorado 14ers, with amazing opportunities for alpine technical climbing. The standard route up the peak is a challenging Class 3 climb, following a long 7 mile approach hike. The biggest challenge isn’t the distance, but the route-finding, as it’s easy to get off track and wander into much more difficult terrain. It’s important to carefully review a Crestone Needle Route Guide. Research this peak well and take your time before you go, as many have died after getting off route and missing a key gully crossing. Start preparing with my Crestone Needle Route Guide.

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Crestone Needle Route Guide Fast Facts

Crestone Needle Route Guide

My Crestone Needle Route Guide stars from either the lower or upper trailhead (if you have 4WD and good clearance). Leave your vehicle and begin heading up the now closed road to the old upper trailhead. After several miles you’ll come to this junction, take the left route for the more straightforward way to reach South Colony Lakes.

Continue for another 1-2 miles before reaching a clearing with a gate near tree line. This used to be the old trailhead but was closed to help protect the area. Continue up the trail past the gate.

Work your way along a slope and then up a moraine to reach the South Colony Lakes area. This is a great place to camp if you’re doing the climb as an overnight trip. If not, take the left at the trail junction below to head to Broken Hand Pass.

The route up to Broken Hand Pass is rugged and involves crossing a few gullies, watch for loose rock. The trail gets harder to follow as you near the pass, until you’ll eventually have a short section of Class 3 scrambling.

Approach the pass, which may hold snow late into the summer. Bring crampons and an ice axe if you expect this may be the case. If dry, follow cairns and a faint trail up the crux to reach the pass.

The pass is a good place to look at the route ahead and check the weather. Good conditions are a must for this route. If things look good, take a right and begin to head towards the south face of the Crestone Needle.

As you get closer, begin your Class 3 action with a short down-climb to reach a notch below you. Stop here and look back so you can easily find the trail on your descent.

Continue along a trail from the notch to reach the bottom of the East Gully. Again, look around you so you remember the terrain on your descent, which is when most accidents occur. 

Enter the bottom of the easy gully and begin to climb upward. Be ready for solid Class 3 climbing with significant exposure in some locations. 

Climb the gully for about 300 feet before it narrows and deepens. Look for a narrow dihedral, which is the easiest place to cross the gully and climb the rib to the left to cross into the west gully, which brings you to the summit.

It will require several difficult and exposed Class 3 moves to cross, take your time. Then continue up to the rib to the left. 

Continue up from the crossing, aiming for a notch in the rib above you which will lead to the west gully.

Drop down from the notch towards the bottom of the west gully. This is a good spot to pause, get a drink of water and check the weather before you climb the crux. 

Begin up the west gully, which you’ll climb for 400 feet or so to reach just below the summit. You should have solid rock here, but you may have a few exposed moments. 

After topping out at the top of the west gully, turn to your left and ascend a steep ramp to reach the summit ridge. 

Scramble across the summit ridge to reach the summit proper of this rugged 14er. Take some time if the weather allows to enjoy the view and your accomplishment. I hope you enjoyed my Crestone Needle Route Guide.

Hiking & climbing 14ers is an inherently high-risk activity – do so at your own risk, and use the following best practices to help keep yourself safe. Good Luck!

  1. Research your route and bring a compass & topographic map.
  2. Check the weather forecast and stay home during inclement weather.
  3. Bring the Ten Essentials and the knowledge/skill to use them.
  4. Leave your plans with someone back home along with a detailed itinerary.
  5. Start early, and end early: Be back at tree line by noon to avoid lightning.
  6. Bring a buddy on your first ascent, preferably someone experienced.

NEW TO 14ERS? CHECK OUT MY BEGINNERS GUIDE FOR A SAFE FIRST SUMMIT!

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MtBelford

About the Author: Alex Derr

Alex Derr is a mountaineer and blogger based in Denver Colorado. He is working to climb Colorado’s highest 100 peaks, and the 20 tallest peaks in California. He created The Next Summit to share advice, stories, history & reflections from the Colorado Rockies & Sierra Nevada. When not climbing, he is managing the Communications strategy at Visible Network Labs.